Kitsch’n River North

GB Note: Getting a second opinion on KRN from hungry yuppie.

Location- 600 West Chicago at intersection of Chicago and Larrabee

In one word – Average

Food – For weekend brunch, there’s a lot going on at Kitsch’n. They now have two locations; we tried the one in River North. Their three-page menu offers both breakfast and lunch options that add a little artistic license to all the old favs. For example, Coconut Crusted French Toast or Bayou Crab Cake Benedict were two choices that offered you a creative interpretation of a brunch classic. You can also choose between their Wings Three Ways—Buffalo, Thai, and BBQ style—or Mac ‘N Cheese puffs with marinara dipping sauce as fun alternatives to your average bar wings or mozzarella stick appetizers. This twist on comfort food is Kitsch’n’s claim to fame, perhaps best exemplified by their As-Seen-On-TV Green Eggs and Ham—eggs scrambled with fresh basil pesto and served with smoked ham—which Rachael Ray raved about on her “$40 Dollars a Day” show.

Unfortunately, despite the Food Network fanfare and a menu full of creative options, when I went to Kitsch’n last weekend with my Trusty Sidekick and our friend, we were disappointed by our food and found Kitsch’n to be average, at best.

Here’s the breakdown. My Trusty Sidekick got a BBQ Hamburger ($9.50) and our friend ordered a Grilled Chicken Sandwich ($8.99). Both chose a side of Spicy Curly Fries. Unfortunately, they both found that their meat was dry and tough and their curly fries were cold and bland.

I tried the The Kitsch’n Sink Salad ($10.99), which comes with your choice of any four ingredients on top of organic mixed greens. For an $11 salad, the portions were okay—I got a pile of greens with a decent portion of avocados, cucumbers, roasted red peppers, and tomatoes (my four ingredients). My complaint is that it was served completely without ceremony in a stainless steel mixing bowl (were they out of plates?), and, I was disappointed by the lack of creativity. Dear Kitsch’n Chef, given your restaurant’s creative theme and a name like “The Kitsch’n Sink Salad,” it would be nice if the options for this salad were more exotic so that we salad-lovers could enjoy some of your creativity too. For example, I was hoping for something like blue cheese stuffed olives, candied sunflower seeds, grilled portabella slices, even artichoke hearts—but, no dice. If it was only $8 or even $9, instead of $11, it would have been adequate for what it was. But I ended up walking away thinking that I could have made this salad on my own and for a lot less money.

My salad quibbles aside, there was a definitely deal-breaker during our meal—our friend asked for milk for her tea, and when it arrived we were surprised to find that there were either spoiled milk boogers or scrambled egg boogers floating at the top of her pitcher. As you can imagine, it was not appetizing. My Trusty Sidekick and our friend had been fighting the good fight against dry meat until then, but after that we all had to surrender. All in all, if I try Kitsch’n again I would definitely go with one of their breakfast items and leave the lunch menu alone.

Drink – Typical brunch cocktails, or affordable wine choices if you prefer.

Service – Even though we went at prime brunch time (high noon), we were seated immediately. Our waitress was pleasant and prompt. Other than the milk fiasco, the service was satisfactory.

Scene – We sat in Kitsch’n’s outdoor beer garden, which was very relaxing. The tables are well-organized, so you don’t feel like you’re competing with a stranger’s conversation or claim to space. Many of the tables have large patio umbrellas, so it’s nice and shaded. The atmosphere is very casual and low-key. It would a great place to meet friends for brunch, and its very family friendly—take kids if you have them—or—parents when they’re in town.

Dress – Unlike some brunch places in Chicago, the River North Kitsch’n isn’t a hot spot where Friday or Saturday night dress seems to continue on into brunch-wear the next morning, and suddenly everywhere you look you see lots of boobies looking to get their late morning/early afternoon buzz on.

In other words, jeans and a t-shirt are fine.

Cost – Without drinks, it was about $13 per person with tax and tip.

If you like, try- Orange, Yolk, Tempo, Demitasse

Written by hungry yuppie

Piccolo Sogno

Location – 464 N. Halsted (Grand and Halsted)

In one word – Underdelivers

Food -This place was hyped up a lot. They were getting press all over the place, so I was expecting to be blown away by the food. I was not. Don’t get me wrong, the food was good, it just wasn’t outstanding. The upside to the place is that they get their produce locally at the Green City Market, so things are fresh. Our table shared the Bianca con Rucula pizza (a white pizza with parmesan, olive oil and argula). It’s a nice dish to share. I think I would have been overwhelmed by the olive oil had I chosen this as my main. Then we moved on to salads. I chose the Insalata di Pesche (pronounced “PESK-A,” as our server told us…twice), which was peaches with goat cheese. I would order this again. My eating partners dove into the Panzanella, veggies and bread in an olive oil marinade (worth getting!) and the caprese salad (pretty standard). Then we moved on to the main. The good thing about the pasta is that you can order an appetizer size, which proved to be the perfect portion for me. Our table ordered the meat lasagna, the spinach and ricotte gnocchi, the string cut spaghetti and paglia with a veal ragu. Nothing was notable, everything was just average. Our entire table had to uncharacteristically salt each dish because the sauces were bland. When the gnocchi came out, it was cold. That’s a mistake from Restaurant 101, we were not impressed.

Drink – I had the Soave white wine, which as the name says, was smooth.

Service – I am always a little bit accommodating towards a new restaurant, kinks have to be worked out. But our server stretched my accommodation threshold, he was straight up spastic. He said he didn’t know anything about the restaurant’s wine selection and requested that we order all our courses at once because “we are a new restaurant and are still figuring everything out.” When we were telling him the wine we were considering (and being very obvious about the price range we needed to stay in), he told us to get a bottle which was $20 more than what we wanted to spend. When we were ordering our food, he corrected our pronunciation of the Italian not once, but twice. And he did it in a really aggressive way. I’m all for correct pronunciation, but be tactful. And later in the meal, it comes out that he’s not actually Italian. His credibility was shot at that point. Overall, he was pushy and stood too close to us.

Scene – This is the old Thyme/Timo spot. Go when the weather is nice and request to sit on the patio, you really feel like you’re eating in a garden. Because the restaurant received so much press, it’s pretty busy. I was surprised to see it full on a Wednesday night.

Dress – While I did see an unfortunate soul wearing Crocks, most people seemed semi-stylish. Jeans are appropriate, but you need to look like you put a little effort into your look.

Cost – We each paid $45. For the amount of food, it’s seemed reasonable. For the caliber of food, it felt overpriced.

If you like, try…Anteprima

Powerhouse

Location – 215 N. Clinton (Clinton and Lake)

www.powerhouserestaurant.com

In one word – Bland

Food – A recommendation from a friend led me to suggest Powerhouse for a work dinner. At the end of the night I was disappointed because my expectations were not met. There were some hits and definite misses to the night. What I liked? The bread and the dessert. What I didn’t like? My starter and entree. To start, I had the cannellini bean soup. Yes, the ingredients were fresh, but I thought the soup was salty. If you’ve read my Green Zebra review, you know I hate when food is over salted. My other eating partners at the table had the lemon risotto (a modification of the risotto on the menu), the pork belly and the Nantucket Bay scallops. Everyone at the table seemed to enjoy their starters more than I did. Then we moved on to the entrees. I chose the grilled white stripe bass with chorizo. I understand that bass is not super flavorful, but really, with the exception of the chorizo, it was tasteless. Imagine how screwed my pescatarian eating partner was, she got the bass without chorizo. Bland city. My eating partners did say good things about the ribeye; there were adequate reviews on the tenderloin. On to dessert. Thank god for dessert. So we ordered an array of options for the table to sample. I LOVED the peanut butter and bananas with marshmallows, partially because I am a sucker for fluffernutter. At the end of the meal, we were served little candies from the pastry chef. Nice touch.

Drink – We chose a  zin. I was pretty happy with the selection.

Service – Our server was nice, but something was off about her. She sort of had a Drew Barrymore affectation when she spoke, but she was raised in Lincoln Park. She should be saying “melk” instead of “milk,” not adding odd lilts to her words. I was confused if the way she spoke was truly her or a way of making herself sound smarter as she presented the menu. I do have to say, she did know her stuff and seemed passionate about the restaurant’s offerings. Get rid of the affectation, I know you’re smart, dear.

Scene – Trendy? Power suits? I don’t really understand what Powerhouse is trying to be. In its pursuit to have too many personalities, the place comes off really bland and stiff.

Dress – We sat across from a group of women that may or may not have been trying to recreate a Lipstick Mafia scene, so you’ll see suits. You’ll also see the jeans and blazer look. Given that the restaurant doesn’t have a good idea of who it is, I wouldn’t worry about what you’re going to wear there.

Cost – This was a work dinner, so my meager Chase debit card wasn’t put into a tailspin. I’m not sure I would come back on my own dime. Entrees are about $30 and with no flavor, do you really want to spend that amount?

If you like, try…Custom House

de cero

Location – 814 W Randolph

www.decerotaqueria.com

In one word – Margarita

Food – They have dubbed this place a “modern day taqueria.” I don’t know if that claim is truly on par, but I do still like it here. What’s good about it is that the food is simple and clean (“de cero” = “from scratch”). It’s Mexican food without the usual side effects. I love their taco sampler. It’s sort of the “greatest hits” of the restaurant.

Drink – Guava margarita and hibiscus margarita are my recos.

Service – Not the best part of the place, but no reason to keep you away.

Occasion – You can go to DC for really any occasion, though it does seem as if the place is mostly full of couples (not necessarily romantic couples, just pairs of people eating together).

Scene – Like the food, the look of this place is really clean. All the aesthetics really come from the patrons.

Dress - Trendy works here, but you can stay casual.

Cost – $30 will get you a drink, an appetizer and an entrée (and possibly dessert).

If you like…, try – avec

Dine

Location – 733 W Madison St

In one word - NOOOO!

Food – Finally a place to tear apart! The whole premise of Dine is comfort food. Let me tell you, I found no comfort in the cuisine of Dine. How in the world do you mess up macaroni and cheese and mashed potatoes?

Drink – My mint martini = Listerine (the green kind)

Service – When my girl friends and I went there, we were the only patrons there. As a result, we were the focus of the three waiters there. That’s a little too much service in my opinion.

Scene – There really isn’t a lot of personality to the décor of Dine. Standard overpolished mahogany wood that you’ll find at too many hotel restaurants.

Occasion – There really isn’t an occasion to go to Dine. I’m just being honest.

Dress – This is a hotel restaurant, so all walks of life frequent Dine. You’re really fine in your sweatsuit.

Cost- You’ll probably spend about $25 and then ask why.

If you like…, try – professional help

avec

Location - 615 W Randolph St

http://www.avecrestaurant.com/

In one word – Trendy

Food – The idea at avec is sharing, but with bacon covered dates and the city’s best cheese platter, I don’t really get into the idea of sharing.

Drink – Wine wine wine. Listen to the waiter’s recommendation.

Service – Chic city service, willing to give you recommendations but won’t interrupt your dinner. I appreciate that.

Scene – You realize Chicago has a trendy food scene when you step into avec. Wood benches for seats, pseudo communal eating with the neighboring patrons, open kitchen, it all works. They don’t take reservations, so go early if you want to eat quickly. There’s not a lot of waiting space in the restaurant, so maybe go on a nice day when you’re willing to wait for an hour outside.

Occasion – I brought my cosmopolitan European cousin here, he was impressed. Good for dates and intimate friend dinners.

Dress – Go Euro chic. Dark colors, simple yet classy look. No tie needed, but t-shirts probably wouldn’t work.

Cost – This is a nice dinner for me, I need an occasion to go to avec because typically I drop $40 – 60.

If you like…, try – Randolph Tasting Room, Ping Pong

Carnivale

Location – 702 W Fulton St

http://www.carnivalechicago.com/

In one word – Party

Food – This place is supposed to give you the feel of a big party with a todo el South Americano theme. The food fits accordingly. I was very impressed by the restaurant the first time I went and less thrilled by the food each subsequent visit. The guacamole is supposed to be outstanding, but I get more excited by the Chipotle version (I heart Chipotle). I always stick by the pork dish basically because I’ll order anything that comes with plantains. It’s decent and worth ordering because the pork comes out tender and juicy.

Drink – This they do well. Try the raspberry mojito and the horchata (it’s a Mexican milk drink) martini. You will like (use your Borat voice).

Service – They’re a fun crew at Carnivale – very social and willing to give advice on how to order right.

Scene – The place seats about 600 total, so it really is a giant party when it’s full. I once came during Mardi Gras, bad move. I found the traveling band and performers to be obnoxious. A lot of 30-somethings like to frequent this place, probably because it’s walking distance to their starter-home lofts of Fulton Street.

Occasion – This would be a good place for a birthday dinner. Probably not so great for an intimate dinner. Also consider C for a company party.

Dress – Jeans and heels would be the minimal dress. Go forth and experiment with that big belt over the sweater dress at this place.

Cost – Depending on your thirst, you’ll probably pay between $30 – 50 per person here.

If you like…, try – Nacional 27, Adobo Grill, Coobah, Quartino

Randolph Tasting Room

Location - 1415 W Randolph, http://www.tlcwine.com/TastingRoom.html

In one word – Flight

Food – I wouldn’t come here if you’re famished. The food is really good, but it won’t hold you over for the long haul. In terms of what to order, anything that has bacon wrapped dates has my vote. And the cheese. The cheese alone is reason to check this place out.

Drink – “Tasting room” refers to the wine list. This place is a wine joint, so leave your craving for a Miller at Duffy’s. Take advantage of the tasting portions and the flights to get the bang for your buck.

Service – No complaints here. The staff was willing to give me recommendations, where were particularly appreciated given my novice understanding of wine.

Occasion – The restaurant has a loft feel to it – with the exposed brick walls and low lit lighting. Ideal for a date. Those of us who are not lucky enough to get a date might find this place also appropriate for a night out with the girls where you can judge those couples on dates on RTR’s cushy couches.

Dress – There doesn’t seem to be a hard and fast rule for this place. You’d be totally fine in jeans and heels (gals) or jeans and a button down (guys). More formal is acceptable too if you’re headed here after doing something uber cultural like the theater or ballet.

Cost – I think I paid something like $34.38 for my half of the pizza and bacon covered dates in addition to two glasses of wine. Not too bad in my opinion.

If you liked…, try – Avec